A First-Timer's Adventure in Mexico City (CDMX)
CDMX, we meet at last! I've globe-trotted quite a bit, but somehow, Mexico City had always eluded me. But the moment I set foot in this capital city, I knew I was in for an epic love affair. We settled into an incredible loft Airbnb in the charming La Condesa neighborhood, a picturesque oasis with tree-lined boulevards, adorable cafes, and countless scenes that had me reaching for my camera and exclaiming, "Oh, gosh darn, that's pretty!"
When planning this trip to Mexico City, our main focus was indulging in its vibrant food scene. If you were hoping for an itinerary full of sightseeing and museums, that's great, and there's certainly no shortage of those things in CDMX. However, after a hectic winter in NYC, we were mostly looking forward to leisurely lunches in picturesque neighborhoods, all while sipping on sweet mezcal drinks. So if that's what you're into, then read on, my friend!
Diving into Mexico City's culinary scene, one place I knew we had to visit was Rosetta. I’d seen it profiled in a lot of travel publications and on one of my favorite Netflix shows, Somebody Feed Phil. Housed within a beautifully restored early 20th-century mansion, the sky high ceilings and lush greenery were the first thing that took my breath away.
But the real showstopper here was the food: white mole with pickled carrots, fresh-baked sourdough with ant butter (yep, you read that right), and a pasta course featuring "insect caviar," a.k.a. bug larvae. "Slimy, yet satisfying!"
During the pandemic, I got very into craft cocktails. I think being unable to grab a drink with friends forced me to create special moments at home. I ordered a few books, bought a shaker and started stocking our bar cart, (tossing out that fossilized bottle of pre-made margarita mix that had been taking up real estate in my fridge for months). Once things started opening up, I figured it might be nice to step up my game and visit some of these bars that had been written about in my books. The World’s 50 Best Bars list became trusty road map, and wouldn’t ya know? Mexico City just so happens happens to be one of the most represented cities on their list! I was so excited to check off three more bars from the The World’s 50 Best Bars list. The first was Baltra Bar, which felt very cool and neighborhood-y, like something right out of Williamsburg, Brooklyn. The next was Brujas, a women-owned and operated bar with drinks inspired by witchcraft. Spooooky and delicious. I highly recommend making a reservation for the last, Licorería Limantour, which is ranked fourth on the Top 50 Best Bars in the World list and holds the number one slot for any bar in the Americas. We visited right after an early dinner at Rosetta and found it hopping despite still being pretty early in the evening. Don't miss out on their unique al pastor margarita; inspired by the popular street taco, this sweet and sour concoction is as delicious as it is intriguing.
Day two began at Blend Station to nurse our cold brew fix before hitting up the enchanting Roma Norte neighborhood for a morning stroll. Roma Norte's charm comes from its mix of old and new, with architectural styles ranging from Art Deco to modern design. We found this laid-back neighborhood to be filled to the brim with unique cafes and boutiques, along with its fair share of colorful murals.
One of my favorite things to do on vacation is shop at vintage stores. I always end up finding something super unique that has the added benefit of reminding me of the trip I took whenever I wear it. Luckily, Roma Norte has no shortage of vintage store, ranging from affordable and thrifty to high-end boutiques. Some of my favorites were Vintage Hoe, Goodbye Folk and especially Back to Life Vintage, where I picked up two incredible shirts from the 1970s. At 180 Degree Shop, a sweet boutique, Scott snagged this very cool silver necklace.
We then made our way over to Panaderia Rosetta, which is the bakery run by the same folks as the restaurant we went to the night before. They have two locations in Roma Norte. Naturally, we had to try both. The main location near the restaurant definitely had a longer line (yes, the wait is worth it), but it surprisingly moved along faster than the smaller location.
If you visit their larger location on Colima, be sure to take the pastries to the nearby Plaza Rio de Janeiro and enjoy them on a park bench while people (and dog) watching.
Then came the pièce de résistance: a gastronomic adventure at Expendio de Maiz sin Nombre. This unassuming gem takes no reservations and has no menu; instead, they bring out mouth-watering dish after dish until you finally cry "uncle." Perhaps more than anything in this blog, I would recommend Expendio de Maiz sin Nombre. It really felt like we were in on a secret. Michelin does not yet do stars for Mexico, which seems insane given their thriving food scene (although they are supposedly going to soon), but this felt like the exact kind of restaurant deserving of one of their prestigious stars.
We made it to our TWELFTH course before finally admitting defeat and ambling back to our Airbnb for a much needed siesta. I was honestly nervous when they delivered the bill (which can only be paid in cash), but after twelve dishes, two beers, a mezcal to sip and a glass of their agua fresca, the total came out to be only $80 USD! You’d be hard pressed to get that much food at McDonald’s for that price! We, of course, left a mighty tip.
Truth be told, the reason we actually chose Mexico City as our next vacation destination was because we found out one of our favorite artists, Tove Lo, was making a tour stop there. We had tickets to see her in the states, but had to bail because of a last minute job. It seemed somewhat crazy to plan a vacation around a concert date, but I’m so glad we did, because nothing quite compares to dancing to your favorite songs in a foreign country after an epic day of exploring.
Our third day in Mexico City took us to the chic and hip neighborhood of Juarez, where the pulse of the city's creative energy thrives. With its stylish art galleries, trendy eateries, and fashionable boutiques, Juarez offers a vibrant snapshot of Mexico City's contemporary spirit. One boutique in particular, Boyfriend Shirt, made a real impression with their gender-inclusive luxury clothing.
Brunch at Botánico, in the neighborhood of La Condesa, started with a ginormous pitcher of sangria. This spot was easily the most Instagrammable of anywhere we visited, nestled in a garden of succulents and twenty-foot saguaro cacti. We arrived right as they opened, and soon found ourselves surrounded by immaculately dressed, young, beautiful people, all indulging in inventive, locally-sourced and photo-ready dishes.
We burned off the buzz with a leisurely wander through La Condesa, popping into boutiques and galleries. I recommend visiting Mooni Art Gallery, which features affordable work by Latin artists. Every inch of wall was covered with seriously impressive art, ranging in styles from pencil sketch, to sculpture, to hand-woven. As we made our way back to the Airbnb, it was as if the mist parted and the Brigadoon of all vintage stores appeared, San Junipero Vintage. Like the Black Mirror episode of the same name, this place was my literal paradise, where everything inside was magically in my exact size and all seemed to be straight out of the 1970s. Yeeaaahhhh, I may have done some serious damage.
We decided to get grab some sunset drinks at La Terraza, the rooftop bar of the hotel Condesa DF right across the street from where we were staying. It was a bit more pricey and scene-y than our other destinations (if you’ve ever been to Soho house, you know the vibe), but it was worth it for the view. If we squinted, we could just make out the volcanoes.
But the wildest part of our CDMX adventure came later that evening, during a stop at Tacos Los Alexis. Stuffed to the brim with incredible food, including an amazing off-the-menu item — cricket tacos! — we struck up a conversation with a beautiful woman at the bar. It was only after chatting about our meal that I realized who she was — EVA FREAKING LONGORIA! And don’t worry. Before catching on, I fully asked where she was from like an idiot. She replied with a glint in her eye that she bounces between CDMX and LA. It wasn’t until I noticed Scott and the amazing chef who’d been taking care of us all night, absolutely losing their minds, that I put two and two together. Something tells me she actually appreciated not being recognized. Regardless, it was truly the cherry on top of our Mexico City experience.
Mexico City, you've stolen my heart. I can't wait for our next rendezvous!
Where We Stayed:
Incredible loft Airbnb in La Condesa neighborhood