After nineteen hours on the longest flight in the world, I had finally arrived in the city of the future: Singapore. For years, this country had been on my bucket list. I’d marveled at its ultra-modern, sustainable landscape; at its buildings that looked like giant silver surfboards; at its collision of cultures; even at its cleanliness. Having honeymooned in Thailand, and performed in concerts all across the Philippines, Southeast Asia has become one of my favorite places on earth, in part because it’s physically on the opposite side of the world from my life in New York. And while all those destinations felt far away, Singapore was literally the farthest. Now, having returned home after a six-day whirlwind adventure, I can safely say that it’s one of the most fascinating travel destinations I’ve ever visited. From the epic floral majesty at Gardens By The Bay to the mouth-watering cuisine at local hawker markets, Singapore truly is a feast for the senses. Home to world-class architecture, delectable food, and lush green spaces, this “city of the future” was even more incredible than I imagined.
How I got there
The adventure began on the longest non-stop flight in the world, NYC to Singapore, aboard one of my favorite airlines, Singapore Airlines. To make the 19-hour flight more enjoyable, I splurged on business class. Honestly, at my age, being able to lay down flat on a long-haul flight is necessary, so I try and build in business class tickets as a prerequisite whenever I’m budgeting out a trip. The seats were very comfortable with an expansive entertainment selection and surprisingly delicious airplane food. I know it’s hard to believe, but the journey flew by (pun intended). I was even able to get a lot of work done and catch some Z's, thanks to Singapore Airline’s signature diagonal sleeping arrangement.
Where I stayed
Because it was my first visit to Singapore, it made sense to stay in the heart of the city. I chose the Ritz-Carlton Singapore which is located right on the Marina Bay. The Ritz-Carlton brand always has great amenities and paired with an incredible view, I’d say it surpassed my expectations. When booking, we spent a little extra, choosing to stay in one of their larger Club rooms that include access to the Club Lounge, where you can avail yourselves of free meals, cocktails, and afternoon tea. Once you factor in all the free food and drinks, it’s a treat definitely worth the extra expense.
Things to do
Especially if you arrive in the evening, I’d recommend kicking off your trip with a River Cruise to get acquainted with the city and Marina Bay. Opt for the 8:30 PM cruise and you'll be treated to the impressive and futuristic light show at Marina Bay Sands.
Read any travel guide and they’ll tell you Gardens by the Bay is a must-visit, and I would have to agree…mostly. The sky garden is truly impressive, but we found the other ticketed areas to be a little underwhelming, and given the pricey admission, you might be better off just wandering around the grounds.
Shopaholics and window shoppers should definitely checkout the glamorous Marina Bay Sands, one of the most stunning malls you'll ever visit. A warning, everything (minus the food, we’ll get to that later) in Singapore is more expensive, so if you’re looking to buy that new Bottega Veneta bag, you’ll probably find a better price in your home country. But even if you don’t buy anything (we didn’t) it’s still worth a trip. I mean there are literal canals complete with gondolas that you can ride in. This place knows how to do extra.
For a unique experience, try “prawning” at Hai Bin, where you can fish for prawns and barbecue them afterward. The fishing part of it was thrilling. We both caught a number of prawns. Though we couldn't muster the courage to gouge a skewer through the live animal and grill them. Luckily, we were able to pawn them off on another friendly and grateful patron. I’d recommend this for the less squeamish.
Shopping and picturesque streets await you in Kampong Glam and Haji Lane, a colorful neighborhood with an eclectic mix of stores.
Taking the cable car to Sentosa Island was very fun experience, offering stunning aerial views of the city and the surrounding waters. Sentosa Island is probably most visited as destination for entertainment, with Universal Studios Singapore, S.E.A. Aquarium, and Adventure Cove Waterpark all on the island. Though we were there for a different reason.
Sentosa is also a great place to catch some rays on one of their man-made beaches. Book a cabana at the Tanjong Beach Club for a perfect, and vibe-y spot to relax by the sea. It was hard to believe that just a few miles from the urban downtown, you could find white sand, swaying palm trees, and crystal-clear waters.
Orchard Library, situated in the heart of Singapore's shopping district, is a modern and innovative library. It felt purely Singaporean in that it turned the traditional experience and design of a library on its head. Like almost everything in Singapore, the library is incredibly sleek and modern. Worth a visit just for a peek at the design, but if you’re staying for longer, I can imagine tucking into a corner and escaping the city in solace for the afternoon.
Changi Airport is consistently ranked as one of the best airports in the world. It’s a destination in itself, with people often visiting when they’re not even scheduled to fly. As an America, the idea of choosing to go to the airport on a day when you don’t have to is truly baffling, but after spending some time here, I absolutely get it. One of the highlights, just after security, was a sizable butterfly garden teeming with over 1,000 butterflies. I can’t believe I’m typing this, but I would plan to at the airport a few hours before your flight to fully enjoy the multitude of attractions and experiences they have to offer.
Where we ate
The best food we had in Singapore was undoubtedly at the hawker markets (open-air food courts). One thing we learned is that it is much rarer for people to cook at home than in the states. Everyone, from all social classes, regular eat at these hawker markets, sometimes for all three meals a day. What is amazing is that most stalls specialize in only a handful of dishes, but each one has been perfected and handed down through generations. There are some dishes that have gone nearly forgotten from mainstream food culture, and the only place to try them is at one of these stalls. It’s also the one really affordable thing you can buy in Singapore with most plates of food costing less than ten dollars. We visited several, but these were our top picks:
At Maxwell Food Center, the Tian Tian Chicken Rice's legendary dish, Fu Shun Shao La Mian Jia's scrumptious duck rice, and Alimama's bracingly spicy green chili chicken.
The Chinatown Complex is host to the most affordable plate of Michelin-starred food that you can find anywhere, Liao Fan and their famous soy sauce chicken. We also loved Hill Street Fried Kway for their fried noodles.
The cinematic Lau Pa Sat was easily the most beautiful, housed in a historic building. We recommend whichever is the busiest stall on Satay Street and also loved the BBQ stingray that we found at a nearby stall.
For a more upscale experience, we ventured to:
Colony, which offers a “vintage champagne all-you-can-eat brunch.” It is often touted as the best luxury brunch in Asia. This was definitely a splurge, and with good reason. In addition to unlimited pours of champagne for the three hours that we were there, we were able to make multiple trips to the different food stations, piling our plates sky-high with lobster, sushi, chili crab and pastry after pastry.
Spago Bar & Lounge, located atop the famous Marina Bay Sands, provides a pretty insane view. Admittedly, this splurge was perhaps a little too pricey for what you actually get and certainly one of the more touristy places we visited.
For a quick bite, we loved:
Pita Bakery in Haji Lane, the perfect spot for a quick lunch.
Our favorite coffee shop was Coffee Donkee, where the owner's exquisite collection of coffee cups from around the world inspired us to buy two sets - one for ourselves and one for our dog-sitting friends.
Finally, we dined at Keng Eng Kee Seafood, a local favorite. While they boast an extensive menu, the thing we were coming for was their famous chili crab — a giant Sri Lanken mud crab, bathed in the sweetest, spiciest, most delicious, finger-licking gravy.
Where we drank
Singapore's cocktail scene is a mixologist's dream, with more entries on the World’s 50 Best Bars List than any other Asian city. Some of the ones we checked out were:
Republic Bar located in the Ritz-Carlton, is a classy spot with creative cocktails that harken back to the roaring 20’s.
At Raffles Long Bar, you can sip the original Singapore Sling in a nostalgic, colonial setting. It’s touristy as hell, and the famous cocktail comes out to almost $40USD per glass, but we’re gonna go ahead and say that this one was worth it.
Indulge in luxurious caviar service and exquisite gin cocktails at Atlas, the most eye-popping, art-deco bar I have ever visited.
While MO Bar ranks among the world's best, we honestly found it overrated compared to other options.
LGBTQ+
Singapore has a complex and often difficult history with the LGBTQ+ community. As a former British colony, Singapore inherited the British colonial-era law, Section 377A, which criminalizes sex between men. Although this law is rarely enforced, it continues to hang over the LGBTQ+ community and hinders progress in terms of rights and acceptance. Furthermore, the country does not legally recognize same-sex relationships or marriages and lacks anti-discrimination laws that protect against discrimination based on sexual orientation and gender identity.
Despite these legal restrictions, we found that, as gay travelers, we felt incredibly safe and welcomed during our visit to Singapore. The city has a surprisingly vibrant LGBTQ+ scene, with numerous bars, clubs, and events catering to the community. It's essential to recognize, however, that while visitors might feel at ease, the local LGBTQ+ community still faces challenges in their fight for equal rights. Singapore has made strides in recent years, with growing visibility and acceptance of LGBTQ+ individuals, but there is still much work to be done to achieve true equality. If you are a queer traveler looking for a fun night out, make sure to check out these spots and tip your waiters heartily:
Dorothy's is a Wizard of Oz-themed bar with a very friendly vibe and hilarious waitstaff. If we lived here, this would absolutely be our neighborhood hang.
Neil Conversion Clinic is a cheeky, tongue-in-cheek speakeasy. What appears to be a conversion clinic from the outside is actually a gay bar, transforming a place with destructive connotation into a place of joy.
Theatre enthusiasts will adore Backstage Bar, a Broadway-themed bar.
Our trip to Singapore was truly an unforgettable adventure that showed us the diverse and luxurious side of this remarkable city. While it's true that Singapore is a more expensive destination compared to other places we've visited, their approach to ultra-luxury really is unparalleled. Luckily, the city also provides a wealth of affordable options, particularly in the realm of food, allowing travelers to indulge in its rich culinary scene without breaking the bank. A six-day trip to Singapore is perfect for immersing oneself in the city's many different cultures, ensuring ample time to explore, taste, and experience everything this vibrant metropolis has to offer. With its remarkable cleanliness, unmatched safety, and a wealth of activities to enjoy, Singapore truly knows how to do luxury travel.